Disclaimer: This one is a lil long!
Waitangi Day in New Zealand is basically the equivalent of their Independence day. Kinda. It’s significant because it was the day the Maori (original people of New Zealand) and the British (the people that invaded) signed a treaty to agree on how they would run the country (In a nutshell).
Now obviously, one group got the short end of the stick (take a guess who), but that’s not what we going into today.
I was fortunate to be in New Zealand TWICE for this public holiday
The first time I was fresh off the plane and took a road trip to the original spot where the signing occurred in 1840. Festivities included a formal flag raising ceremony, loads of people, army parades, Waka (canoe) races, performances, food, more people, and little to no parking 🙂 These were the ‘formal’ celebrations with government officials included and everything.
I got the chance to experience this within my first week in New Zealand – what luck! I was also with a Trini, Vincey & Jamaican. It was the first time I saw a waka, and when I began to learn about what the day was truly all about.
The second time I celebrated Waitangi day was just the other day….
February 6th 2020. I flew to NZ for a visit and the days just happened to coincide. My old co-worker turned friend (Hii Geo), is Maori and she invited me out on Waitangi day. “It’s a concert at a Marae (a Maori greeting house)” she said and that was enough for me to say “YES! I’ll be there!!”
Now I won’t lie. When I first heard this, I was honored. Because I KNOW (or thought I knew), that to be invited on a Marae was like, a big deal. I thought I was going to see this ultimate special performance on this ‘celebratory’ day at an intimate event – a sacred opportunity, that only few ‘outsiders’ would ever get to experience.
Tell me how I make dat up in my head eh?
The event definitely was not that. BUT, it was INCREDIBLE none the less and the Maori culture was definitely out in full force.
Here’s how it went:
A short drive outside of downtown Auckland, we pulled up to a suburb in the south – known for its heavy Maori and Pacific Island population. As we parked and walked towards the venue, I noticed only a few cars parked on either side of a small side street leading in. “Hm, guess it’s not too many people attending” I thought to myself.
But you know what told me otherwise? The music. Dat ting was blasting! We were still well away still but you could hear it clear as day. Just like when you could hear noise from your island’s largest stadium for cricket or large concert event.
So I say to ma self “Eh eh, is a big ting den”. And boy oh boy, was I right. It WAS a BIG TING.
We walked uphill through a wide open park entered the event through one of its many entrances (apparently) – its kiddy area 🙂 An array of blow up slides, tractor racing, face painting etc were set up for kids to enjoy.
We continued walking and just beside that area were an array of stalls with education and learning information – Maori language courses, city council representatives, health info, diaper giveaways and information on the leaders and tribe of the land we were on.
Yall dis ting was well organized!
Not to mention lots of kids running around. I could tell there was more to see because (again) music was BLASTING in our ears even though there was no stage in sight! The reggae covers of slow jams played by the band was so loud it was almost like it was ‘calling us’ to go check it out.
So after a few more stalls, we quickly decided to follow the music and rocked up to thee main area of the day….
The Concert Area
There was a large stage located wayy down the front to my right, and if you looked in either direction, you saw PEOPLEEEEEEEEE!!
PEOPLEEE I tell you. Man, jack, woman, child AND granny was dey (X10). With their house and land* (T*: “With everything they own!”). I tellin you.
One side had people who decided to soak up the sun (no umbrellas) with picnic blankets and chairs who were just hanging out. They were closest to the stage. Then the other side was dedicated to people with full blown day tents complete with coolers (eskiee/chilly bins), lounge chairs and even a couch or two. I swear some people moved in to the park man. An ‘alley way’ was created to separate the sections for people to walk through – smart!
By this point, two things fascinated me:
- The sheer SIZE of the event. (Apparently there were 4,000 people!)
- The fact that almost everyone walking around, had color on their skin!! They were all either Maori or Pacific islander! #AHMAzing.
The whole year I lived in New Zealand, there was only one other time I saw so many Maori and Pacific islanders congregated in one place!!
I LOVED IT!
Let me not get carried away though. What did we do next?
- Visited the mini vendors strip – from jewelry to bags to clothing to ornaments. A variety of ‘Maori’ products were available for people to buy, the culture oozing through the products.
- Visit the ‘Kai’ area – aka the FOOD! Now this area was about half the size of the ‘crowd’ by the stage area, but it was still a large space area and packed with people. You could get coffee or donuts, but also Hangi, boil up, watermelon with ice-cream in it, fish broth or Palace takeaway (a vendor that came from the Cook Islands and had the longest lines!)
The ‘Kai park’ crawled with people – all hungry and looking to dive into to the delicious food the stalls had to serve.
It felt like a combination of my island’s food fair with a huge concert, wrapped up in one.
Tour time
Geo and Hamish (my friend and her partner) took me around the entire park and explained the different sections, why this looked like that, what that food was, and where to go where not to go. I got to try a hangi (food cooked by the traditional Maori method), they toured me around the Marae (the greeting house on the premises), and shared some knowledge and insight into their Maori culture. They taught me about the tribe (iwi) at that particular area, words used, the Maori school and so much more.
The entrance to the Marae Half way through my Hangi!
They did it all in front of the camera for me too! (Global Gyal YouTube channel tun up!)
After we stuffed our faces, we scouted a spot on the grass by the stage and watched the upcoming performers. The event pulled some of New Zealand’s biggest and oldest Maori/Pacific island bands – where reggae & roots music was a constant throughout.
The announcers/hosts spoke in the Maori native language (Te Reo) throughout the entire event and only sprinkled English here and there. The organizers were of colour, the security guards were of colour, the people walking by you were. Of. colour.
It was refreshing to see them as a people, coming together and celebrating this milestone day in this way. I loved it. Seeing their culture so alive and well warmed my heart – it truly did.
Jamaica in the house
Now, after a couple hours of chilling and listening to the bands, I bid my friends adieu and dipped out. Their sun was no JOKE. I was TIRED!
As I was walked out though, I heard them play a Bob Marley song (it’s the day of his birthday and they even had a special picture area for him), and it reminded me, that we’re all connected in some way shape or form. And that it’s always a precious thing, to see a new culture thrive in its element.
You could take a photo with Bob Celebrating Bob’s birthday
Thank you Geo and Hamish for exposing me to such an event. I was lucky to have experienced it and with such two knowledgeable and kind people such as yourselves! I’m extremely grateful to have attended.
Take the leap and do something different folks.
You won’t regret it.
I promise.
Yours truly,
Global Gyal.
BTW if you want to SEE (visually), my experience of Waitangi Day, the video is up and available on my YouTube page. So go check it out!)
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